ODYSSEY'S ENCOUNTER WITH TICONDEROGA

Written by Catherine McCabe, crew on SV Odyssey

Ticonderoga is a legend.  I've been aware of her existence for as long as I can remember.  She's been just out of sight, on the horizon, fast, then gone.  I knew nothing of her really, except that a glimpse was a special thing out on the water, but the horizon eats up every vessel, monstrous 1000' Maersk container ships, along with human sized Odysseys.  Our eyes can only see a few miles then poof, out of sight.  The ocean leaves you feeling quite alone, but never really, since just over the horizon, there's always another. 

We pulled into Bermuda on Nov 6 after an Odyssian sleigh ride.  Our Garmin tracker picked up an elevation of 25' at one point, truly being lifted up by Mother Nature.  Pulling in after our first long ocean passage ever, the feeling of safety and accomplishment was beyond words.  The quay and customs on Ordinance Island in St George, a short dinghy ride away, had a few yachts.  At a glance, they had majestic lines, polished chrome and crew with matching shirts.  That's the real give away.  But there was one that had a familiarity.  It looked like a massive Prudence, our now sold, 36' Herreshoff Nariea, wooden cutter ketch built in 1972.  A little gem.  The only other boat that it could be is Ticonderoga.  I said nah, no way.  She's a legend.  Off to customs and immigration to check in. 

Bermuda Radio had us on their sights 50 miles out.  They know who's approaching their tiny rock in the middle of the Atlantic and they guide you in.  The Brits are so sophisticated.  After anchoring, we almost didn't make it in time as our Johnson 2 stroke on our dinghy was a bit salty.  Luckily James in Moby Dick threw us a line and pulled us to a dock just before we became part of the 100' steel wreck that decorates the harbor.  When you're being towed by a local wahoo fisherman in St Georges Harbor, you don’t have much say about where you go.  He left us on the dock of Moongate Brewery.  Oh shucks.  We made the best of it while Captain Sandy literally ran back to the east side of the harbor to customs. 

We made some friends at the brewery and got a tow back to Odyssey, cleaned ourselves up, and got our Johnson some clean fuel.  We weren't quite done with St George's finest establishments.  Ultimately we found ourselves back at the brewery hearing there was a free pool table, or rather, billiards.  Pretty empty, just a few kids.  They wouldn't be a problem. 

Cath: "So what brought you guys in?"

Kids: "We're crew on Ticonderoga”

Cath: "THE Ticonderoga???!!!"

 We never got to crush them in pool but did make arrangements for a hang on Ticonderoga the next day.

"Ti", as those who are intimate enough call her, has graced many through history.  Again she's a legend in the classic sailing world.  When she was for sale a decade or two back, we missed out on the bidding (lol).  The crew said it was fierce between the current owner and Jimmy Buffet. 

We bumped into our pals from Ticonderoga over the next few days as we all waited for the weather south, provisioning and pickling ourselves in Bermuda. Capt Sandy even lent them her dinghy when they had to move Ticonderoga off the quay to anchor for two days of storms.  When the weather turned for a Nov 12 departure for Antigua, we said our goodbyes, and wished each other a safe voyage.  They had plans to leave the next day for St Barts.

It never ceases to amaze me how our Salty Dawg pack of boats, leaving relatively at the same time, can have 30-50 miles between one another in a few hours.  The ocean does that.  Keeping that in mind, on day 4 after leaving Bermuda, there, on the horizon, the most perfect and legendary sight, Ticonderoga.  Our CPA was 1.2 miles! Just simply unbelievable!!  Hailing her was fun.  There was talk of booty and cannons.  But never did I ever think that there would be actual cannons!!

The Captain, Kyle, magically held her in a pattern for us to catch up and just when we thought we were going to take her broadside, she fell off and came around, literally blowing their cannon for full display and effect.  Maneuvers were all under sail. 

As the sun went down with one of the most majestic sunsets I have ever seen, Ticonderoga disappeared over the horizon, as a spect of gold.  A huge gem. 

L. Francis Herreshoff TICONDEROGA - Classic Sailboats https://share.google/4hOFY8sdfg5GwbteU

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