MY FAVORITE ANCHORAGE:  HAMAMOENOA BAY, MARQUESAS

Written by Carole Brisson, SV Carosy

When I was asked to share my favorite anchorage in French Polynesia, I happily agreed, eager to give back to the Salty Dawgs community.  Picking one spot wasn’t easy, though—French Polynesia spans more than 100 islands over 2,000km (1,240 miles).

We left Panama in late March and, after 35 days at sea, finally arrived in April 2025.  Ours isn’t the fastest boat, and light winds made our crossing slow.  Still, the gentle conditions minimized wear on the boat, though the crew’s excitement to finally spot land grew day by day!

My husband and I were determined to see as much of this legendary region as we could, so before leaving Panama, we obtained a long-stay visa good for one year (and potentially renewable).  During our time there—from arrival to haul out—we explored most islands in the Marquesas, Tuamotus, and Society Islands.  Each group has its own unique character.  We covered roughly 1,500 nautical miles, finding anchorages that ranged from breathtakingly beautiful and totally remote—some were uninhabited and rarely visited—to wild spots with nothing but waves and goat calls, lively areas near towns with festival drumbeats, places close to boating facilities and restaurants, and even anchorages where amazing snorkeling was right outside our boat.  With such variety, how could I choose a favorite?

One day, as I paused from cleaning Carosy to track down the source of distant goat bleats, my answer became clear: my current anchorage was my favorite.  That’s why, after six and a half months of exploring, we chose to return here.

This special place lies in the Marquesas, off Tahuata Island, at Hanamoenoa Bay. Here’s why I love it so much:

• It’s just about 8nm from an official port of entry, Atuona on Hiva Oa.  While Atuona Bay - the closest entry point from Panama - suffers from heavy swells, poor holding, and crowds early in the season, Atuona town offers decent grocery stores for stocking up, a medical clinic, pharmacy, repair services, a haul-out facility, a chandlery, and gas/diesel available via jerry cans.
• In contrast, Hanamoenoa Bay is sheltered from the prevailing swells and typically very calm.  The sandy bottom provides excellent holding.  It can get crowded early in the season, as sailors escape Hiva Oa’s rougher anchorage for some well-deserved rest, hull cleaning, and repairs after the crossing.
• Marquesan waters are nutrient-rich (so visibility isn’t always great), but in this bay, you’ll find the clearest water around.  The abundance of nutrients means lots of fish life.  Our favorite part? Swimming daily with massive reef manta rays—they never failed to appear when we ventured into the water!  Both sides of the bay also offer pleasant, easy SCUBA diving brimming with marine life.
• Beach lovers will enjoy the deserted stretch of sand.  Getting there by dinghy can be tricky, but paddle boarding or swimming works well.  Coconuts are plentiful, perfect for snacks or a rum cocktail.
• Lastly (and importantly, for me): No charter operators run in the Marquesas.  So even during busy times, all neighboring boats belong to liveaboard cruisers, which means no blaring music until 3 a.m. - unlike some Caribbean spots.  The only sounds are waves and, occasionally, wild goats.

I hope the above will be of help to those jumping over the pond… 

What's your favorite harbor?  Email [email protected]