MEDITERRANEO MEZZO

A second installment, written by Linda Stelmaszyk, SV Alora

Our passage across the Atlantic in 2022 included a multi-year plan to keep our Hylas 56, ALORA, in the Med, spending about three months a year there.

The second season started in May, 2023 visiting the islands and coast south of Rome, Sicily, Albania, Montenegro, Croatia and back to Italy for the winter.  Sounds like a lot, but was actually quite doable, with just a few overnight passages.

The weather in early June is ideal in southern Italy and the crowds are just arriving.  For marinas, use Navily or call as they can be difficult to book especially in hot spots like the Amalfi Coast. It is also very helpful for information about anchorages, as it is community driven. Charter boats rule everywhere now, so on their weekend changeover days, dockage is impossible. 

The Pontine Islands near Naples are remote, very Italian and an easy sail from Gaeta. The Amalfi Coast, Capri, Sorrento and Positano are, shall I say, international. Three nights in Sorrento and each day brought thousands more tourists.  Join the fun and embrace the chaos as the real Italy awaits just an overnight sail south!

In lovely Spring weather, we arrived in the Aeolian Islands just north of Sicily with plenty of anchorages, all in sight of active volcanos.  And just a day sail away was Capo D’Orlando Marina, a great place to resupply and venture out for a road trip around Sicily. Do not expect too much English spoken this far South but expect great food and fascinating drives!  Google maps and google translate are invaluable and cell service is rarely an issue.

Our stops on the north coast were Cefalu (always listed as most picturesque), Palermo and Balestrate, before heading east to the Straits of Messina and overnight to Crotone for checking out of Italy.  On a mission to reset for the VAT, another overnight across the calm Adriatic to Sarande, Albania.  Trying to attract yachts, but still somewhat lacking in marinas and services, we used an agent to check in, simplifying the process.  A short sail to Montenegro, known for the beautiful Bay of Kotor, found Alora well inland, in quiet anchorages with ancient villages.  

Croatia lies just north of Montenegro and we checked in at Trojir, a lively town without the cruise ships and ferry traffic of Dubrovnik and Split.  Kastel, with a lovely marina and Skraden, far inland up the Krka River afforded us time to explore waterfalls and hikes inland.  Returning to the coast, we explored the Kornati National Park islands, with free moorings and uniquely, one pricey restaurant on each island, run by families in summer only. Travel always surprises!

After a great summer of cruising the Tyrrhenian and Adriatic Seas and with the season waning, we sailed overnight to the East Coast of Italy to winter in Pescara.  Our route was one of many that cruisers choose and you can spend much more time in any of these places depending on your time.

Facebook groups about sailing the Med and even groups of Sailing Italy, Sailing Greece, etc. are plentiful, searchable and invaluable for finding services.  Practical considerations are the 90 day visa requirement, 18 month boat reset to avoid VAT, customs in each country and national park fees.  Don’t forget the passerelle for all marinas and long floating lines for tying back to the shore in Croatia and Greece. And fenders, lots of fenders!

See you on the water.